The Beauty of Amber

by Gabriela Gierłowska

Humankind's interest in amber dates back to as far as the Palaeolithic Age. People from the most ancient societies became intrigued by the gemstone's unusual and mysterious properties, beautiful scent and the beauty of the nuggets found on the seashore.

It was also its beauty that made people hang these interesting natural forms on straps for ornament and to stand out above the rest, both of which are among the perennial needs of humankind. They are fulfilled by AMBERIF, the world's largest amber fair. The rich programme of the Fair aims to show amber and its charm in contemporary ornaments in the most attractive way.

The Fair takes place in Gdańsk, Poland, a city which set the tone in world amber jewellery production in the 16th and 17th centuries. This was the age when "exquisite crafts", including amber jewellery, flourished in Gdańsk and had favourable conditions for development. The city's authorities understood how extremely important artistic amber jewellery production was to Gdańsk's characteristic contribution to European culture.

It was then that artistic creativity in amber developed to a degree unrivalled until this day. The Gdańsk masters discovered the secrets of crafting figurative sculptures, bas- and low relief, delicate engravings at the bottom of transparent plates, and the construction of enormous mosaic planes. It is no wonder then that Gdańsk was the place where "diplomatic gifts” exchanged between monarchs were commissioned. They could be grand chests, cups, reliquaries, mirror frames, chandeliers, and even furniture decorated with amber. We can still marvel at many of these artefacts today in European museums.

It was the masters educated in Gdańsk that crafted the entire amber interior of the Berlin study of Prussian king Frederic I. The almost finished, extraordinary artefact was given by the son of its sponsor to Tsar Peter I. Thirty years later, expanded and enriched by the work of artists from all of Europe, it became a truly unique work: the Amber Chamber at the Palace of Catherine the Great in Tsarskoye Selo. Lost during the Second World War, it has recently been reconstructed by Russian master craftsmen. The beauty of amber shown here on a grand, architectonic scale is a delight to all those who come to see this greatest of amber artefacts.

Contemporary amber jewellery making is returning to the tradition of grand decorative forms from the Golden Age of Gdańsk. In Poland, the best example of this trend is the altar at the Church of St. Bridget in Gdańsk, as well as other grand works being produced in the studios of the larger amber jewellery companies, works which most usually derive from the above-mentioned traditions and are made of the most beautiful natural amber. In organising shows and exhibitions devoted to these works, the Amberif Fair supports the rebirth of the amber craftsmanship of old and enables us to keep up to date with and marvel at the latest developments.

The Fair is well and truly a Grand Amber Holiday. Apart from the merchants who come here from the world over, everyone for whom amber is important comes here. The Fair is a perfect opportunity for establishing personal contacts, to meet important persons in the industry and for the wide exchange of information. The Fair organises accompanying academic seminars and supports and promotes publications which deepen the knowledge about amber.

The awareness that we can widely present our national treasure only when our knowledge about amber is as full as possible and effectively promoted has led the Gdańsk International Fair Co. to support the publications from the pocket series entitled Amber Drops by the newly founded "Bursztynowa Hossa" (Amber Boom) publishing house. Each new debut of the books from these series coincides with the Amberif Fair.

The goal of the books is to comprehensively promote amber and to lead to a growth in the sales of products with this gemstone which is so dominant in the Polish jewellery industry. Each new book in the series has a leading topic, and together, in time, they will make up a necklace: a string of amber drops, complete and closed entireties in their own right. All of the books are richly illustrated with expressive photographs and present the latest information on amber, in keeping with the latest scientific research. The 9th Amberif Fair will see the debut of the next drop, entitled The Beauty of Amber.

The leading amber jewellery producers not only want to sell their products at the Fair, but also present their new releases for the coming season. Many of them take part in the shows and contests encouraging the presentation of amber's beauty. Some of the works even allow one to contemplate the splendour of the nugget used in them. They attract amber-loving merchants who look for jewellery decorated with especially beautiful, natural amber gemstones for their demanding clients round the world. To help meet these demands, the Fair is also accompanied by the Designers' Gallery, where renowned artists present their ideas for the manifesting and underscoring of the beauty and attributes of amber in artworks and artistic jewellery. Their self-made works, full of creativity, enjoy enduring popularity among their clients.

The charm, beauty, extraordinariness and mystery of amber have long inspired artists, collectors ... as well as forgers. In order to ensure the merchants the safe purchase of material of the highest quality and an opportunity to have it identified, the Fair provides the services of the Amber Laboratory run by the experts of the International Amber Association. The Amber Laboratory also serves to specify the method of determining the features of the amber material. Using clearly defined, strict criteria in terminology, it helps us to understand the structure of amber – enabling us to appreciate the wealth of the gemstone's variety of tints and its extraordinary, unique charm. The Laboratory also plays a significant role in the standardising of trade in amber, through the use of the correct terminology in keeping with CIBJO standards, which in turn strengthens and cements reliability in trade and makes the Amberif Amber Fair a guarantee of safe purchase.

The beauty of amber, increasingly noticed and highlighted by jewellery makers, has begun to attract new ranks of lovers of this unique gemstone. Amber has become a fashionable gemstone and has its place in the salons and galleries of the world's largest cities. It is worth the effort to raise its profile even higher, because amber has been mentioned as Poland's speciality by travellers coming to our country for centuries.

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